Erwin, TN - Mile 1838.4

*Please note that we have changed the location and date of our final mail drop.

December has brought with it precipitation and consistently cold weather. We spent two of the past three days hiking in steady rain, but were greeted with a day of bright sunshine as a respite between the two. Lucky for us, this was also the day we hiked up Hump Mountain and the Roan Highlands, areas others told us would be some of the most beautiful on the trail. As we climbed almost 3000' up Hump Mountain, a covering of bright snow greeted us. We emerged from treeline onto the bald mountain to views that extended 360 degrees. As we snapped photos, both of us were in awe at the beauty of the snow-covered ridge and peak and we basked in the sun knowing more rain was only a day away.

And rain it did yesterday! We made the commitment when we woke up to push all the way into Erwin, TN (pizza and heat are a great motivator), literally a marathon-length day. We were on the trail in the dark and found as the morning progress that wind, not rain would be our greatest challenge. 50mph gusts whipped across the ridges we walked and tore large limbs from nearby trees. Increasingly large blow-downs blocked the whole trail and as we climbed over massive trees, we looked at each other thinking, "Is this the best decision we have ever made?" Town pulled though and we continued, crossing the Nolichucky River into Erwin well before darkness. Hours later, we were warm, showered, and munching on two pizzas.

After several long days, we are taking it easy on a "zero day" here in town. We enjoyed a second breakfast at a local Waffle House knock-off, where an older gentlemen at the table next to ours curiously inquired what breakfast food I was putting ketchup on. When I replied "My hash browns" he quickly added "Well you must be a Yankee then!" It has been enjoyable exploring the cultural differences between southern Maine and the rural South. Generally, we have found people to be remarkably friendly. During our resupply in the local supermarket this morning, a woman asked if we needed a ride anywhere. Of course, we eagerly took her up on the offer (which saved us a mile walk back to our motel), although David quickly asked "How did you know we're hikers?" as we didn't have our packs with us. I'd like to think it was our rain gear and Crocs and not our smell that tipped her off.

As we approach Springer Mountain, now less than three weeks away, hikers are beginning to bunch up as everyone pushed to finish before Christmas. We are enjoying hiker camaraderie that has been absent for much of our trip and are seeing more hikers than we have since passing the northbounders in Maine and New Hampshire. Excitement is flowing throughout the group of hikers as we anticipate the conclusion to this journey while appreciating our remaining weeks. It is truly hard to wrap our minds around how far we have come.