The adjustment begins...

After a whirlwind few days in Atlanta, through major airports, and the celebration of Christmas we find ourselves amazed at how quickly our lives have changed. Suddenly, the cold feels a lot colder (did I really sleep in it every night?), cars feel too fast, and noises too loud. Our unpacked backpacks sit in our bedroom, a reminder of how little we actually need and picking out clothes in the morning feels like an unnecessary decision. Undoubtedly, we are happy to have a life that does not involve concern over the weather conditions and daily physical fatigue. Simultaneously, my body wakes up wondering what use I can put it to each day and my running shoes will get put to use as soon as I shake the cold I have acquired. I am realizing that our lives will now have a pull between the two worlds we know, the trail life and the other world that is more common.

Despite the sadness that results in the end of such an adventure--and a life really--we feel an immense gratitude for the opportunity not only to hike the trail, but to experience a life of simplicity and one that highlights the best of this country (in contrast to what people and the local news often highlight). For five months, we always had what we needed, never lost our keys, trusted strangers, received unexpected kindness, and developed friendships when we least expected to.

Our friends, and particularly our families, were as necessary as our packs or shoes in all of this. Logistically, they kept us supplied and emotionally, kept us sane in caring for our dogs with great care and affection. We owe endless thanks to those who sent packages, emails, kind words, prayers, and rides--be they strangers or our parents. Thank you!

Final pictures are posted.
North Carolina & Tennessee: http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/NorthCarolinaTennessee
Georgia: http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/Georgia

We made it!

We completed our five month, 2,178.3 mile walk of the Appalachian Trail this morning under sunny skies. The weather was almost nice enough to convince us to walk back to Maine...well, not quite. We're showered, wearing cotton again and trying to wrap our minds around what we have achieved. Here's a snapshot of the morning. More photos and tales to come.

We're almost there! Hiawassee, GA

With just 67.5 miles remaining of our journey, it is hard to fully make sense of how dramatically our lives will change within the next week. We are looking forward to consistent heat, the absence of mice in our sleeping space, and rest for our weary bodies. We simultaneously know we will miss what has become our life out here, the sense of purpose each day brings, and the company we share with other hikers. During the past full week of miles, we tried to soak in these remaining days (an easy task when the sun returned) as thoughts of summitting Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the trail, whirled in our heads.

We are consistently hiking with four other hikers, all of whom we met in the first 1,000 miles of our hike, but only bumped into several weeks ago. Their company has added humor and comraderie to our experience and sharing the excitement of completing the trail has been a valued part of our hike. Additionally, being with others in lousy weather makes the craziness a bit easier to bear. We woke up at 5am this morning to get an early start with knowledge of the approaching winter storm. By 6am we were hiking in steady snow, which transitioned to rain and freezing rain and back for the remainder of the morning. The weather kept us moving and somehow we pulled out 16.7 miles by noon! Unfortunately, I spent the next 30 minutes standing in the pouring rain trying to hitch a ride into town. Thankfully, Chomp (always the negotiator) talked his way into a ride for half of the group as a second driver pulled up. Before long, we were warm and dry at the local Holiday Inn.

The excitement grows as Tuesday, our summit day, approaches. We talk about our first days on the trail, when we had 67 miles down, rather than 67 to go. We discuss the poses we will strike on Springer and prepare for the festivities (a fellow hiker has been carrying fireworks for the past 40 miles). Amidst it all we try to remember how far we've come and feel pretty darn proud of ourselves. The next time you hear from us, we will be thru-hikers!

Fontana Dam, NC - Mile 2015.7

After months on the trail, it is becoming hard to realize just how close (just 163 miles!) we are to fulfilling our goal. The past week's weather continues to throw additional challenges our way, as the temperatures remained below freezing for three days straight (a logistical nightmare for trying to stay hydrated). We were delighted when it began to warm up last night, only to find ourselves in a downpour this morning. While the rain continues, the forecast predicts better days ahead (thankfully). Either way, we will continue to push south!

Erwin, TN - Mile 1838.4

*Please note that we have changed the location and date of our final mail drop.

December has brought with it precipitation and consistently cold weather. We spent two of the past three days hiking in steady rain, but were greeted with a day of bright sunshine as a respite between the two. Lucky for us, this was also the day we hiked up Hump Mountain and the Roan Highlands, areas others told us would be some of the most beautiful on the trail. As we climbed almost 3000' up Hump Mountain, a covering of bright snow greeted us. We emerged from treeline onto the bald mountain to views that extended 360 degrees. As we snapped photos, both of us were in awe at the beauty of the snow-covered ridge and peak and we basked in the sun knowing more rain was only a day away.

And rain it did yesterday! We made the commitment when we woke up to push all the way into Erwin, TN (pizza and heat are a great motivator), literally a marathon-length day. We were on the trail in the dark and found as the morning progress that wind, not rain would be our greatest challenge. 50mph gusts whipped across the ridges we walked and tore large limbs from nearby trees. Increasingly large blow-downs blocked the whole trail and as we climbed over massive trees, we looked at each other thinking, "Is this the best decision we have ever made?" Town pulled though and we continued, crossing the Nolichucky River into Erwin well before darkness. Hours later, we were warm, showered, and munching on two pizzas.

After several long days, we are taking it easy on a "zero day" here in town. We enjoyed a second breakfast at a local Waffle House knock-off, where an older gentlemen at the table next to ours curiously inquired what breakfast food I was putting ketchup on. When I replied "My hash browns" he quickly added "Well you must be a Yankee then!" It has been enjoyable exploring the cultural differences between southern Maine and the rural South. Generally, we have found people to be remarkably friendly. During our resupply in the local supermarket this morning, a woman asked if we needed a ride anywhere. Of course, we eagerly took her up on the offer (which saved us a mile walk back to our motel), although David quickly asked "How did you know we're hikers?" as we didn't have our packs with us. I'd like to think it was our rain gear and Crocs and not our smell that tipped her off.

As we approach Springer Mountain, now less than three weeks away, hikers are beginning to bunch up as everyone pushed to finish before Christmas. We are enjoying hiker camaraderie that has been absent for much of our trip and are seeing more hikers than we have since passing the northbounders in Maine and New Hampshire. Excitement is flowing throughout the group of hikers as we anticipate the conclusion to this journey while appreciating our remaining weeks. It is truly hard to wrap our minds around how far we have come.

Thanksgiving in Damascus, VA - Mile 1715.3

Just four trail miles from Tennessee and less than four weeks from Springer Mountain we have a lot to celebrate this Thanksgiving (in addition to the simple excitement brought about by an all-you-can-eat turkey dinner). We pushed our miles over the past eight days to make it to Damascus for the holiday and are warm and cozy in a local bed and breakfast, excited about the trail we have ahead of us.

This past week took us through some of the most beautiful terrain we have seen recently, the Grayson Highlands. At 5000', the open grassy terrain is reminiscent of our time out west and grazing ponies completed the scenic vistas (see our pictures posted below for a visual). Despite some rain and colder temperatures, we are surviving well in the outdoors and appreciate the advantage being Mainers has provided for us in this area.

After several weeks of solitude, we have also encountered more southbounders here in Damascus than anywhere else on our journey so far. Upon entering town yesterday, we went to the local burger joint (food always takes precedence over showers and laundry) with three other hikers. There, we met another hiker who has been ahead of us for months and the numbers kept growing for the following hour. After several rounds of milkshakes, burgers, and chili dogs Chomp was as close to full as he has been in weeks. It has been fun to have the company (we have apparently been dubbed some of the only "normal people" out here) and have others to share our reflections with as we collectively approach the southern terminus of the trail, Springer Mountain.

As we enter the final month of a journey we have both anticipated for years, we have many emotions. Excitement to return home to our dogs remains paramount in our minds, as well as a return to a lifestyle that is less taxing on our bodies. Simultaneously, we realize that the end of this journey will be bittersweet, as the simplicity and flexibility of this life will be difficult to replicate in our lives back in the "real world." Looking back, we have lots to be thankful for on this Thanksgiving. As sparsely as we may have lived this past four months, we truly have received so much through this experience. As we chow down on turkey today, we will be thankful for...

*The simplicity of the experience that allows us to notice how things come our way exactly when we need them out here (we believe it's this way in all of life, but the "noise" sometimes prevents us from noticing)
*How much a sunny day means to us when its been preceded by rain
*The feeling of a warm shower after eight days without one
*Sharing an intense experience as a couple
*The time and space to focus on how fortunate we are both out here and at home
*To still enjoy the hiking when so many around us have blinders on for the finish
*The support we've received from those we know--particularly our families--and complete strangers we have met along the way
*Time to notice how friendly strangers can be (last week, a couple pulled over as we road walked just to ask if there was anywhere we needed to go)
*Calories! (and the luxury of eating everything we can get our hands on)
*Seeing the sun rise and set each day
*Being in the mountains everyday and seeing this country at 2.5mph pace (which provides the opportunity to visit small-town America)
*The camaraderie of other hikers, even if we only see them every 500 miles
*Being at point in the hike where we feel our goal, for so long far away, is now within reach

Happy Thanksgiving! Feel free to peruse our experiences in Virginia at http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/Virginia.

Pearisburg, VA - Mile 1552

We reluctantly left Daleville just as tropical storm Ida hit Virginia earlier this week. Technically speaking, Chomp informed Half Full she was plain old crazy to leave a dry hotel in the midst of the ensuing rain, but she insisted. A day later they found themselves hunkered down in a shelter watching the wind blow 30mph gusts of rain across the ridge. Needless to say, Half Full admitted that Chomp had been right afterall! Thankfully, the rain let up by Thursday afternoon and we were moving again.

By the weekend, the weather had turned dramatically and we found ourselves in shorts and t-shirts again. Most of the week's hiking took us along ridgelines for several miles, then through an open valley, and up on the ridgeline again. We passed McAfee's Knob, one of the most photographed places on the trail, in near full fog. Thankfully, our ascent up the Dragon's Tooth (also a notable trail spot) was more clear and provided scrambling reminiscent of our hiking in Maine.

We arrived in Pearisburg by lunchtime today. Somehow our trail legs kick into full gear when food is in order. We'll be taking a zero tomorrow here and then pushing south with the hopes of making it to Damascus in time for Thanksgiving dinner. I have a feeling the meal will be motivation enough.

Daleville, VA - Mile 1459

What a great week we've had in central Virginia! The sun has been bright, the weather warm, and the views excellent. Despite walking in ankle-deep leaves much of the day, the lack of leaves on the trees provides for great views from nearly everywhere. Much of the trail over the past 100 miles has traversed the side of mountains, followed ridgelines, and summited peaks above 4000 feet. Being back in the mountains has renewed our appreciation of the trail.

Our mileage continues to increase despite climbing up and down several thousand feet each day and our bodies are holding up well. Daylight is our only obstacle now and the headlights are coming out more regularly for the last miles of the day. Our increased exertion on the trail has also brought our appetites back in full force and trail talk again revolves around food. During the 25 miles of trail we covered yesterday we strategized about the McDonald's Dollar Menu Challenge (eating one of each item), which we completed just hours ago.

Our standards for food have taken a sharp decline, most notably yesterday when Half Full excitedly discovered a ziplock of peanuts hanging in a shelter. Together we devoured the peanuts without a second thought. It was truly a "you know you're a thru-hiker when..." moment, as we would never in our "normal" lives eat food we found in a public place.

Mile by mile we can feel ourselves getting closer to Springer Mountain. We are counting down the miles now rather than counting up what we have already hiked and trying to find a balance between being excited about getting farther south and simultaneously soaking in each day on the trail.

Waynesboro, VA - Mile 1325

NOTE: We will be arriving in Montebello, VA earlier than expected. Please let us know if you have sent anything there that will not arrive by Wednesday, November 4th.

You know we're south of the Mason-Dixon line when country music is on the radio everywhere, Half Full is routinely referred to as "mam," and biscuits are available as a common side. We did also meet a local hiker with a thick drawl who raised a bobcat on "buttermilk and cornbread" but that's another whole story... The good news is that we're solidly in Virginia and have begun counting down the miles (about 850 to go) rather than counting those we've covered.

This past week has been a full one. We hiked through the Shenandoahs at a fast pace, covering over 160 miles in the past 8 days. The heavy fog and several days of rain closed in many views, although we did have moments of sunshine to dry our gear and jumpstart our spirits. Our bodies are feeling the wear and combined with the cold, wet weather, I (Half Full) struggled to find the motivation to get out of a wet tent mid-week. Thankfully, Chomp and I are able to pull each other through our toughest moments and we increasingly are realizing the good fortune we have in having one another.

His company was particularly useful on Saturday night, when we arrived at a shelter to discover in the logbook (a notebook at each shelter where hikers sign in and share their thoughts) that a crafty resident raccoon had discovered how to get food down from the bear pole. We, along with Ody (a fellow southbounder), decided to instead hang our food in the shelter with us for the night. Around midnight, a loud noise startled me from my sleep as Chomp banged on the shelter floor. He awoke just moments earlier to see the raccoon, paws on Ody's hanging food bag, just feet from his head. Soon, the two boys (Chomp and Ody) took it upon themselves to have a midnight mission of permanently scaring away the raccoon. With childlike enthusiasm both collected an small arsenal of small rocks (this, in the rain mind you) to keep with them in the shelter. At each of the raccoon's returns, they threw a rock in its direction. Thankfully, the animal was scared off shortly thereafter and my fears of waking up with a raccoon on my face were alleviated. Perhaps this event, along with the giant mutant mice we had seen in a shelter earlier in the week, will illustrate why we usually prefer to tent!

We are spending a zero day in Waynesboro today where we're trying to gain some weight (the mountains have brought our appetites and weight loss back!) and relax at the local YMCA pool. We'll be back on the trail tomorrow--onward to Springer Mountain!

Harper's Ferry, WV - Mile 1164

Well, many of you heard about the nor'easter that worked its way up the coast late last week. We thought we'd share a snippet of our week with you by giving you a picture of our life last Saturday--during the worst of the storm--so you can glimpse the magic of this experience, even on what started out as a less-than-pleasant day.

Saturday morning we awoke to the sound of freezing rain hitting our tent, dreading the thought of cooking breakfast in the rain. We decided to pack up and hike a couple of miles with the hope of finding an awning to cook under in Pine Grove State Park. Within an hour of hiking we were content cooking under the awning of the park bathrooms (our standards were thrown out the window long ago). After a bowl of warm oatmeal, we commited to taking on the thru-hiker tradition of eating a half gallon of ice cream at the half-way point of the trail, usually attempted at the Pine Grove Park Store. We arrived a few mintues before the store opened and encountered two men waiting. They asked if we were there for coffee too, we quickly replied, "No, ice cream!" which was followed by a chorus of laughter, including ours. Little did they know at that moment we were serious. After a few minutes of conversation, they discovered we were thru-hikers and were intent on eating ice cream despite the cold weather (ice had formed in the gutters of the store at that point). Amazed, one of them instantly insisted on buying our ice cream and the second, a newspaper reporter for his local Florida paper, asked to share and document the experience with us.

The eating began...shortly followed by the shivers. Bite by bite however, we finished our half gallons. While neither of us broke any time records, the store owner did agree that we completed the challenge in the worst weather in memory. In addition to taking away our official "Half Gallon Club Member" wooden spoons, we got a great memory out of it.

Several miles down the trail, we officially crossed the half-way point (mile 1089.1) and continued on our way as the first snowflakes began to fall. We kept moving to stay warm, intent on staying at a shelter. As we encountered several Scout troops, we kept our fingers crossed that we would find room at our destination. Thankfully, not only did we find an empty bunk, but also a warm fire, around which a dozen middle school boys gathered. Their leaders continued the trail magic of earlier in the day, giving us a bag of extra granola bars and hot macaroni and cheese following our first dinner. We spent the night enjoying the company of the boys (most of whom were amazed and inquisitive about our adventure) and the fascinating authoritarian nature of their leaders.

We awoke in the morning to a fresh coating of snow, thankful for making it through a rough stretch of weather, the increasing blue sky, and the memorable experiences of the previous day.

Our newly posted photographs document the dramatic shifts in weather that we've had.
http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/PennsylvaniaMarylandWestVirginia#

Boiling Springs, PA - Mile 1066

We're enjoying a relaxing night in a local inn awaiting the dinner buffet (our driving force for coming here). Word of this place has spread like wildfire on the trail because they give hikers a room for $25 and offer buffets in both the morning and evening! It is a hiker's dream!

The recent miles have passed quickly, in part because of easier terrain (we have passed the worst of the infamous Pennsylvania rocks) and we have had several days when we have hiked past the 20-mile mark. We are finding the biggest challenge now will be the decreasing daylight. All that said, we are continuing to enjoy ourselves and the flexibility this adventure provides. We celebrated the 1,000 mile mark last week and are looking forward to the half-way point in two days (half gallon challenge here we come!). Surprisingly, we have found this place in the trail to feel a bit daunting, rather than simply a celebration. We have walked so far and yet still have so far to go. We are keeping our focus both on the accomplishment of getting here and the excitement we feel about returning to the mountains in Virginia.

Just when you begin to think we're living the good life--no alarm clocks, buffets galore--check out the weather forecast for the next few days. Freezing rain...fun. We know the sun will come out again, but we wouldn't mind your warm thoughts.

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?CityName=Boiling+Springs&state=PA&site=CTP&textField1=40.1578&textField2=-77.1373&e=0

Still relaxing (Thanks Aunt Sue!)

New York brought with it the frequent option of buying food during a day's hike, as there are pizzerias, delis, and farm stands within a mile's walk of the trail. For no other reason, we like New York instantly! We also used this opportunity to each our first shared 1/2 gallon of ice cream in one sitting. Keep in mind this is small potatoes compared to the 1/2 gallon of ice cream we will try to each eat as tradition at the halfway point of the trail in southern Pennsylvania.

Like Connecticut, New York had its share of road crossings. The most significant of which was through the Palisades Parkway (note the crossing was not above or below the traffic but directly through 4 lanes of traffic). We stared at each other in disbelief as we watched the blur of 70mph traffic. Unlucky for us, we hit the crossing at Friday evening rush hour. Thankfully, we found a break and made a dash for it, wondering how crazy we looked to passing motorists.

Despite a lack of true solitude in New York, we did discover one of our favorite campsites on the trip so far. Upon summitting Black Mountain, we enjoyed a clear view of the Manhattan skyline and found a grassy patch nearby for our tent. Watching the sunset to our west and the lights of the city come on to the east was a truly memorable experience.

The highlight of New Jersey, which even outshines some beautiful ridge hiking, was our stay at The Outhouse. The residential home belongs to Dick Ludwig, who is the former small-town mayor of Unionville, NY, just a half mile from the New Jersey A.T. At the age of 70, Dick welcomes all hikers into his home by cooking them meals, doing their laundry, providing sleeping space, and with the help of a witty 81-year-old man who he "saved" from senior housing, he provides an entertaining and warm place to call home at the end of the day. While we greatly appreciated the creature comforts, it was the feel of the place that convinced us to stay a second night. The former Mayor is a strong believer in the ripple effect of positive change and much of his time is spent trying to motivate hikers to achieve their goals on the trail and in life. We enjoyed having the opportunity to reflect on our hike and reconnect with a deep appreciation for this opportunity. Most amazingly, Dick himself has never been a hiker. In fact he often says, "You hikers are fuckin' nuts, but I greatly respect what you're doing." At our stay, he had hosted nearly 800 hikers this year and all solely on donations. We felt lucky to have met him.

Today, we'll return to the trail after two relaxing days with Half Full's Aunt Sue. You can literally see what we've been up to via the links below.

Massachusetts Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/ATMassachusetts#
Connecticut Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/ATConnecticut#
New York Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/ATNewYork#
New Jersey Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/ATNewJersey#

Delaware Water Gap, PA - Mile 896

The past three weeks have taken us through Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, and today into Pennsylvania! While the climbs have been less challenging and the camping less remote, we continue to enjoy our trail experience. Looking back, it's difficult to remember each and every day, but the following is a summary of the most salient memories of our recent weeks.

Our knees found relief on the gently rolling terrain of Massachusetts. We found the open farmland the trail followed beautiful and noticed the early signs of fall in the changing leaves. Our favorite town was Great Barrington, a picturesque New England town that we hitched into for breakfast. Just minutes after putting our thumbs out, a car turned around and came back to get us. The driver, Francine, eagerly inquired about our journey and brought us to a great local eatery. The friendliness of those who give us rides continues to amaze us. We enjoyed the feel of the town and particularly the positive curiosity of the locals (not something we experience everywhere). Even strangers who thought we were "certified crazy" pleasantly inquired about our adventures. To contrast the positive of Massachusetts, Half Full had a particularly difficult morning after a poor night of sleep in a shelter (the first we'd stayed in for 200 miles). In a groggy haze, she sent a stream of urine down a slope, which then inconveniently puddled in her Croc. Chomp affirms that she has now officially earned her name of Half Full!

The trail itself in Connecticut was not particularly memorable, in large part because the trail seemed to cross or follow roads (and the associated noise) more frequently. Despite that, we had a great visit with Papa and Mama Chomp--who joined us for a few miles on the trail--and our dogs, who we sorely miss. They treated us to delicious meals, a relaxing hotel stay, and fun game of dominoes. Shortly after saying good-bye to the dogs and dragging our feet a bit in sadness, we met the first southbound couple of our trip, Lefty and Homefry. After our initial conversation, we realized we had quite a bit in common and enjoyed spending several nights with them. The connection with them was a welcome diversion from our departure from the dogs and another reminder of many that the trail continues to provide exactly what we need.

Update on New York and New Jersey are in publication and will be posted within a day or two.

Mile 796- Highland Falls, NY (Home of West Point)

Just checking in to let you know that we're alive and well. However, we've abandoned the thru-hike idea and instead are enrolling at West Point... Hoorah! David is shaving his beard as we speak.

Side note: I suppose all the Mexican food we ate in town this afternoon has altered our conciousness. Off to the hotel room to sleep it off. We'll be back on the trail tomorrow, still heading south for the winter and loving every minute of it!!!

Chesire, MA - Mile 610

On this overcast Saturday, as we are relaxing and giving our feet a much-needed rest, we thought we'd address the most common questions we hear. Many of the questions we're asked are similar, some are plain old silly (such as "Do you realize it's going to be cold when you are hiking in December?"), but the one that takes the cake was a woman in town who asked us "Why would you want to do this?" When we chuckled, thinking "Who wouldn't want to do this?" she asked more seriously, "No, really, why would you want to this?" unable to grasp the pleasure we receive from such a simple life out here.

Q: How many miles do you hike each day?
A: Our mileage varies depending on the terrain and scenery. Currently we are backpacking between 15 and 20 miles each day. As the terrain becomes easier (fewer rocks and significant elevation changes) we are hoping to maintain this mileage (not increase it) to prolong this adventure.

Q: What types of people do you meet?
The people we meet on the trail are an eclectic bunch. We've met hikers from age 10 to a handful in their 60s and early 70s. Most recently we have shared the company of a German-born Canadian named Heinz the Walker who (at the age of 70!) is hiking to Harper's Ferry, WV, as the last section of 4 to complete the entire A.T. He, like us, is looking for a quiet, reflective experience and his stories illustrate how full life truly can be. Some other hikers are out here to push their bodies (they fly by us) and others to socialize and party (we fly by them). Some of the friendliest people we have met are not even hikers, but trail supporters who live in nearby towns, at times offering us rides even when we haven't been hitching. Their generosity and kindness make up for all the weird and disgusted looks we get from everyone else in town.

Q: How heavy are your packs?
A: Without the rocks David hides in Emily's pack, each of us carries about 30 pounds including food and water. Our consumables make up the greatest percentage of pack weight, particularly as our appetites grow. All things considered, our packs are manageable, in large part because we share gear.

Q: What do you eat?
A: Maybe the question should be "What don't we eat?"! On the trail, we eat oatmeal or cereal for breakfast, followed by Poptarts and an energy bar for the morning snack. Lunch consists of tortillas or bagels with peanut butter or cheese and pepperoni. In the afternoon we enjoy a candy bar each and gorp or whatever other snacks we have. Dinner allows for a bit more creativity. Our current favorite is tortellini with powdered tomato Parmesan sauce. Usually dinner is rice or pasta based, although we did pack out a 28oz. can of beans and hot dogs earlier this week. In town, we eat consistently. As of this 9am writing, David has eaten 5 donuts, a half of a chocolate bar, and 2 pieces of pizza.

Q: What do you do other than hike?
A: Eat! We also try to spend time relaxing in the sun and reading at beautiful spots. When it was warmer, we swam often. Each evening we write in our journals. Due to our ongoing fatigue, we sleep 9+ hours a night (during which time David dreams about eating!).

Manchester, VT - Mile 537.7

During our weekend in Burlington, we found ourselves reflecting on how satisfying our hike has been to this point. When reading the thoughts of northbounding thru-hikers summitting Katahdin in recent weeks, we decided we want to make this experience as thorough as possible. With the recognition of the work it took to arrive at this experience to begin with, we want to be sure to take the time both on the trail and in small towns, avoiding the mileage craze many hikers get caught up in. As we've gotten farther south and met the "back of the pack" northbounders we've encountered many happier hikers, enjoying the moment. As one hiker said, "A successful hike will have me summitting Katahdin on October 14th [Baxter State Park closes on the 15th] because it will mean the hike has lasted as long as possible."

We're learning to appreciate all that the trail has to offer--the miles, the views, the wildlife, the social experience, and the ice cream. Ahh...the ice cream. This past Friday was a spectacular example of this experience. We had intended to sleep in and enjoy a relaxing morning, perhaps some reading. Instead it felt like we were in the middle of a Wild America episode. The sounds of branches breaking, scratching, and screeching outside the tent woke us up. I climbed out of the tent with a trekking pole in hand to discover a black bear about 30 meters away. A couple tense minutes turned out to be nothing as the bear had little interest in us and eventually moved on.

The remainder of the day continued to follow this pattern of unexpected events. A mile into our day we met a new southbounder, Restless, and shared stories for 45 minutes before heading on. Our mileage plans were interrupted yet again about an hour later when we came across a cooler of soda. We celebrated our first 500 miles with a Mountain Dew and a Pepsi (see picture), which finally got us moving for the day.

At noon, we walked a half mile off of the trail (yes, we will walk extra for food) and got burgers and ice cream at the Whistle Stop Cafe. By 6:30pm we called it a day despite not getting as far as we had originally intended. What we might have in the past perceived as interruptions have now become an essential part of our experience.

Relaxing in Vermont (after 443.1 miles)

We crossed our second state line yesterday afternoon shortly after each enjoying two slices of pizza and a very large Ben & Jerry's waffle cone (I guess when you are clearly scrubby thru-hikers to the scoopers, they do their best to help with your caloric deficiencies). The state crossing into Vermont brought with it the opportunity to spend some time with Half Full's family in the Burlington area, where we are currently relaxing, catching up on town chores, and eating well. This last topic has been put in the limelight, as the home visit has given us the opportunity to hop on the scale and realize the dramatic effects of trail life on the body. Combined, we have lost 16 pounds--this in just over a month--and are realizing how truly critical eating is to our overall health. What a life it is to force oneself to eat pizza and ice cream!

That said, our bodies are feeling the wear of consistent physical challenge. With only one full day off of the trail in the past five weeks, we are gaining an appreciation for the necessity of rest in this adventure. Each of us has developed some persistent discomfort, largely in our backs, knees, and balls of our feet. All of this is common and expected and will likely last the duration of our hike. As one northbounder expressed to us, he looked forward to being able to "walk on a hardwood floor barefoot without pain" when his hike is completed.

Despite the tenderness and tightness, the hike continues to be the experience we had anticipated. As we run into the back-of-the-pack northbounders, many of whom have taken more time to accomplish their thru-hike, we are reminded of the importance of truly taking in each day and appreciating every aspect of the experience. We feel fortunate to have met so many fellow hikers in this recent stretch who are thankful for the experience they've had on the trail and are trying to make the last month last, rather than counting miles to the finish.

The most dramatic change this past week was in the trail conditions. After summiting Mount Moosilauke on Tuesday--and what a beautiful grassy peak it was!--we officially completed the Whites and found ourselves on hardpack dirt trail (this after several weeks on rocks, roots, and mud). We also hiked through our first fields, a reminder that an Appalachain Trail thru-hike is more than a mountainous journey, but truly one about walking the length of the country. We are looking forward to soaking in a change in scenery and the culture of trail towns as part of the upcoming experience.

Also, we've finally had the time and ability to upload our favorite photos. You can live our journey in pictures at the following sites:
http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/ATMaine#
http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/ATNewHampshire#

North Woodstock, NH - Mile 372.7

Since our last post we've hiked through some of the most spectacular mountains on the trail with breathtaking views each day. Despite some rain we were fortunate to have traversed the Presidential Range, including Mount Washington, under clear blue skies and light winds. We braved the crowds on Washington to enjoy pizza and ice cream in the summit cafeteria.

Franconia Ridge provided another highlight of this section. We approached the exposed ridgeline in dense fog and clouds with our visibility limited from one cairn to the next. Shortly after summiting Mount Lafayette the clouds parted briefly providing us stunning views of the three mile ridgeline. It was the most unique sight we experienced so far (pictures should be posted next week).

We've also realized through the Whites how strong our bodies have become, particularly because we've started with the hardest sections of the entire trail. Daily we would hear from northbounders that we should be cautious for the "rugged terrain ahead." None of this hiking ended up being any more difficult than what we had already done. Although the Whites have the reputation of being the hardest hiking in the East, we found the Mahoosucs of western Maine to be more challenging (more bouldering and scrambling).

During this last section of trail we were also introduced to the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) huts. Despised and avoided by some thru-hikers, these huts cater to the affluent, often unexperienced and unfamiliar with backcountry norms and practices. However, they also offer hot meals and dry shelter to thru-hikers in exchange for an hour's worth of chores. While this work-for-stay program is win-win, it also puts thru-hikers in the position of second-class citizens as we were requested to remain scare during the dinner hour. While paying guests receive a bunk, thru-hikers sleep on dining room tables or the floor. Despite some poor nights' sleep, we thorough enjoyed warm dinner leftovers and particularly dessert.

The next week should bring somewhat easier terrain, an increase in daily mileage, and our next state line! The trail traffic should also thin out, as we pass the last of the northbounders and kids head back to school (and Emily doesn't!). Vermont here we come!

Mile 297.9 - Gorham, New Hampshire!

Trail magic is a common phrase used with the A.T. community to describe random acts of kindness that occur on the trail. It may be a piece of fresh fruit from a stranger at a trailhead or someone welcoming you into their home for a warm meal. In this past weeks, we have learned firsthand how exciting and uplifting trail magic can be!

Mama Chomp (David's mom) shuttled the dogs out to us on Monday. As if the dogs and her presence weren't exciting enough, she treated us to a delicious breakfast and endless supply of our favorite candy bars. Just two days later, Emily's friend Bluebearee (who thru-hiked herself in 2002) surprised us on the trail near Old Blue Mountain with treats to satisfy all of our cravings (fresh carrots from her garden, homemade cookies, and peanut butter cups). Having a familiar face on the trail was a treat as well! On Thursday Mama Chomp returned to pick up the dogs, again treating us to a hot meal and needed calories. A family friend, Steve Walker, came along and we appreciated his interest and support in our adventure.

At this point, you may be thinking, "When do you guys actually hike?" Amidst the eating, this week brought some of our most challenging miles as we went through the Mahoosuc Mountains of western Maine and into New Hampshire. We have crossed our first state line! To compensate for the challenging miles, friends Nick and Alana hiked in to meet us on Saturday night and brought enough goodies to thoroughly stuff our bellies. David was witnesses licking out his whoopie pie wrapper while Emily ate her Whoopie pie with a spoon and a glass of wine. Their company on the trail was great!

As we get cleaned up and resupply in Gorham, NH we are anticipating the exciting climb into the White Mountains this evening. The weather is in the 90s and we will surely be sweating up some of the biggest climbs of the whole trail (so much for that shower, huh?!). As much as we have enjoyed all the eating this week, the real purpose of it all is to power our hiking, the reason we're here to begin with. A reminder of this is one of the highlights of this week, which was bivying (sleeping out under the stars) on the top of the North Peak of Goose Eye Mountain. We found a rock slab just as the sun was setting and fell asleep with the peak to ourselves, Mt. Washington profiled in the distance, and shooting stars overhead. We really are living a dream.

Stratton, Maine

While the majority of our waking hours are spent backpacking (we've been averaging 15 + miles a day), the experience of thru-hiking extends far beyond the walking. Fellow hikers create much of the experience and folks from all walks of life are out here. Other hikers offer info on trail and towns to come, as well as provide stories and humor to fill the evenings. these relationships are largely positive (despite snoring and random late night guitar-playing) and have been a welcome surprise.

One of our favorite memories so far illustrates this trail culture well. A small rustic wilderness camp offers a 12 pancake breakfast to hikers that is only a short walk from an A.T. shelter. So, early one morning in the middle of the Maine wilderness we found ourselves eating pancakes and bacon with 4 northbound hikers we had just met the night before. For an hour, between bites, we laughed and shared stories and left feeling not only full, but amazed and appreciative of the experience in addition to the food. Where else in life would 6 complete strangers share breakfsat and conversation so comfortably?

Other highlights of the week include an abundance of fresh blueberries (it pained us to pass some up)sunny mid-day swims, great views from the Bigelows and Moxie Bald and developing strong thru-hiker appetites. In our half day in Stratton we've consumed donuts, pizza, a pint of Ben & Jerry's, a chocolate bar, hamburgers and fries (David ate a local favorite, the Wolf Burger, which is as intense as it sounds) and multiple bowls of Cocoa Pebbles. Emily is still deciding what she would like for dessert.

The weather forecast continues to look promising and we have some big climbs ahead of us including Sugarloaf and Saddleback. The dogs join us in just a few days and we have lots to look forward to.

Mile 117.5 - Monson, ME

We've reached our first milestone, completing the 100-mile wilderness! Despite a very muddy trail, we enjoyed good swimming, some amazing views, and a few unique adventures. Yesterday we found ourselves shimmying across a handline (think Army commericals) over a raging river that was otherwise impassable (Emily has the rope burn to prove it). Later in the day, a detour around another water crossing took us 2 miles away from the trail.

Fellow hikers have been both interesting and incredibly friendly. Two northbounders who live near the trail have passed along phone numbers and welcomed us into their homes when we get farther south. On the trail, hikers acquire a trailname, often based on experiences or quirks they may have. David is now "Chomp," a result of his wolf encounter in Alaska and also reflective of his ravenous appetite (yes, already) and Emily has kept "Half Full" from her section hike in 2002, which resulted from an overly optimistic attitude about weather (she swears it is always clearing up).

We are finding our trail legs and creating a routine, one that involves lemonade at each lunch and candy bar each afternoon. This life is quickly becoming the norm and are looking forward to the miles ahead (and BBQ tonight in town!).

Alaskan Adventures

Fresh off the plane from Anchorage, we are relishing photographs of our two weeks in Alaska as we hurridly do laundry and gather gear for our departure on Wednesday. Spending time in the wilds of Alaska reinforced our desire to be on the trail and to spend our days outside and we are eager for the start of our hike. During our vacation, we fished for salmon (and ate Emily's fresh catch), kayaked alongside a calving glacier, hiked on and off trails that provided windows into some of the most beautiful places we have seen, and watched grizzlies, whales, and caribou with awe.

Additionally, David cemented his uncanny talent for attracting wildlife, as we again had an unexpected and unusual encounter. On the final day of our 5-day backpack a lone wolf trotted directly into our camp as we finished oatmeal. Quickly we found ourselves within 30 meters of it as it ignored our shouts and frantically waving arms. As we backed away it basked in our gear, rolling in Emily's raingear with immense satisfaction and chewing away at the back of her pack. With increasing despiration, David began throwing rocks at the wolf, which encouraged its departure and hehas since declared that he's "saved Emily's life yet again." Emily might argue that he is the very cause of such encounters! The incident, which is incredibly rare wolf behavior, fulfilled our desire to see a wolf and also made us excited to return to the northeast where wildlife encounters are usually less dramatic.

You can see the evidence, as well as other pictures from our trip at http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/Alaska2009#.

Our next post will be from the trail, perhaps two weeks from now as we'll be starting with the most remote section of trail. We hope to have stories to share free of wildlife encounters and raging Maine streams. Keep your fingers crossed for drier weather!

Rocks and Roots and Rain, Oh My!

In the last three months we've both resigned from jobs we enjoy, moved out of a house that we love and decided to eat dehydrated food and forgo deodorant for the next six months of our lives. On July 24th we will summit Mt. Katahdin and begin the 2,175 mile walk to Springer Mt. Georgia. This has been both an individual and shared dream for the two of us for many years and the remaining weeks seem like they cannot go fast enough.

This past weekend we hiked the Bigelows near Stratton to "test" out our newest gear (the Steri-pen works fantastically). The taste of the experience (rain, rocks and all) reminds us of why we've chosen to do this. While we are looking forward to the physical challenge (yay, no more marathon training!!!) and wilderness experience it will present, we are also pulled towards this endeavor by the opportunity to live without the daily schedule and routine that our current life includes. We are looking forward to the freedom the trail will provide- walking with the sun...or rain, stopping to soak our feet or to smell the petunias and play cribbage as the cards beckon (at least until Emily gets mad that David has won the last ten games in a row). We recognize that this adventure will not be without its challenges (particularly when David eats more than his fair share of the food ration) and rainy days. These challenges are part of what pull us, knowing that they will continue to build upon the strength of our relationship.

Special thanks go out to Carole & Clayton for watching our dogswhile we're gone. Anyone who knows our sweet dog Sophie knows this can be a daunting task. Also thanks to Liz and Steve who will be managing the majority of our mail drops as well as accompanying us up Katahdin late next month (and trying to desperately feed David enough so he doesn't disappear when he turns sideways...before the hike even begins).