After a whirlwind few days in Atlanta, through major airports, and the celebration of Christmas we find ourselves amazed at how quickly our lives have changed. Suddenly, the cold feels a lot colder (did I really sleep in it every night?), cars feel too fast, and noises too loud. Our unpacked backpacks sit in our bedroom, a reminder of how little we actually need and picking out clothes in the morning feels like an unnecessary decision. Undoubtedly, we are happy to have a life that does not involve concern over the weather conditions and daily physical fatigue. Simultaneously, my body wakes up wondering what use I can put it to each day and my running shoes will get put to use as soon as I shake the cold I have acquired. I am realizing that our lives will now have a pull between the two worlds we know, the trail life and the other world that is more common.
Despite the sadness that results in the end of such an adventure--and a life really--we feel an immense gratitude for the opportunity not only to hike the trail, but to experience a life of simplicity and one that highlights the best of this country (in contrast to what people and the local news often highlight). For five months, we always had what we needed, never lost our keys, trusted strangers, received unexpected kindness, and developed friendships when we least expected to.
Our friends, and particularly our families, were as necessary as our packs or shoes in all of this. Logistically, they kept us supplied and emotionally, kept us sane in caring for our dogs with great care and affection. We owe endless thanks to those who sent packages, emails, kind words, prayers, and rides--be they strangers or our parents. Thank you!
Final pictures are posted.
North Carolina & Tennessee: http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/NorthCarolinaTennessee
Georgia: http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/Georgia
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
We made it!
We completed our five month, 2,178.3 mile walk of the Appalachian Trail this morning under sunny skies. The weather was almost nice enough to convince us to walk back to Maine...well, not quite. We're showered, wearing cotton again and trying to wrap our minds around what we have achieved. Here's a snapshot of the morning. More photos and tales to come.
Friday, December 18, 2009
We're almost there! Hiawassee, GA
With just 67.5 miles remaining of our journey, it is hard to fully make sense of how dramatically our lives will change within the next week. We are looking forward to consistent heat, the absence of mice in our sleeping space, and rest for our weary bodies. We simultaneously know we will miss what has become our life out here, the sense of purpose each day brings, and the company we share with other hikers. During the past full week of miles, we tried to soak in these remaining days (an easy task when the sun returned) as thoughts of summitting Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the trail, whirled in our heads.
We are consistently hiking with four other hikers, all of whom we met in the first 1,000 miles of our hike, but only bumped into several weeks ago. Their company has added humor and comraderie to our experience and sharing the excitement of completing the trail has been a valued part of our hike. Additionally, being with others in lousy weather makes the craziness a bit easier to bear. We woke up at 5am this morning to get an early start with knowledge of the approaching winter storm. By 6am we were hiking in steady snow, which transitioned to rain and freezing rain and back for the remainder of the morning. The weather kept us moving and somehow we pulled out 16.7 miles by noon! Unfortunately, I spent the next 30 minutes standing in the pouring rain trying to hitch a ride into town. Thankfully, Chomp (always the negotiator) talked his way into a ride for half of the group as a second driver pulled up. Before long, we were warm and dry at the local Holiday Inn.
The excitement grows as Tuesday, our summit day, approaches. We talk about our first days on the trail, when we had 67 miles down, rather than 67 to go. We discuss the poses we will strike on Springer and prepare for the festivities (a fellow hiker has been carrying fireworks for the past 40 miles). Amidst it all we try to remember how far we've come and feel pretty darn proud of ourselves. The next time you hear from us, we will be thru-hikers!
We are consistently hiking with four other hikers, all of whom we met in the first 1,000 miles of our hike, but only bumped into several weeks ago. Their company has added humor and comraderie to our experience and sharing the excitement of completing the trail has been a valued part of our hike. Additionally, being with others in lousy weather makes the craziness a bit easier to bear. We woke up at 5am this morning to get an early start with knowledge of the approaching winter storm. By 6am we were hiking in steady snow, which transitioned to rain and freezing rain and back for the remainder of the morning. The weather kept us moving and somehow we pulled out 16.7 miles by noon! Unfortunately, I spent the next 30 minutes standing in the pouring rain trying to hitch a ride into town. Thankfully, Chomp (always the negotiator) talked his way into a ride for half of the group as a second driver pulled up. Before long, we were warm and dry at the local Holiday Inn.
The excitement grows as Tuesday, our summit day, approaches. We talk about our first days on the trail, when we had 67 miles down, rather than 67 to go. We discuss the poses we will strike on Springer and prepare for the festivities (a fellow hiker has been carrying fireworks for the past 40 miles). Amidst it all we try to remember how far we've come and feel pretty darn proud of ourselves. The next time you hear from us, we will be thru-hikers!
Sunday, December 13, 2009
Fontana Dam, NC - Mile 2015.7
After months on the trail, it is becoming hard to realize just how close (just 163 miles!) we are to fulfilling our goal. The past week's weather continues to throw additional challenges our way, as the temperatures remained below freezing for three days straight (a logistical nightmare for trying to stay hydrated). We were delighted when it began to warm up last night, only to find ourselves in a downpour this morning. While the rain continues, the forecast predicts better days ahead (thankfully). Either way, we will continue to push south!
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Erwin, TN - Mile 1838.4
*Please note that we have changed the location and date of our final mail drop.
December has brought with it precipitation and consistently cold weather. We spent two of the past three days hiking in steady rain, but were greeted with a day of bright sunshine as a respite between the two. Lucky for us, this was also the day we hiked up Hump Mountain and the Roan Highlands, areas others told us would be some of the most beautiful on the trail. As we climbed almost 3000' up Hump Mountain, a covering of bright snow greeted us. We emerged from treeline onto the bald mountain to views that extended 360 degrees. As we snapped photos, both of us were in awe at the beauty of the snow-covered ridge and peak and we basked in the sun knowing more rain was only a day away.
And rain it did yesterday! We made the commitment when we woke up to push all the way into Erwin, TN (pizza and heat are a great motivator), literally a marathon-length day. We were on the trail in the dark and found as the morning progress that wind, not rain would be our greatest challenge. 50mph gusts whipped across the ridges we walked and tore large limbs from nearby trees. Increasingly large blow-downs blocked the whole trail and as we climbed over massive trees, we looked at each other thinking, "Is this the best decision we have ever made?" Town pulled though and we continued, crossing the Nolichucky River into Erwin well before darkness. Hours later, we were warm, showered, and munching on two pizzas.
After several long days, we are taking it easy on a "zero day" here in town. We enjoyed a second breakfast at a local Waffle House knock-off, where an older gentlemen at the table next to ours curiously inquired what breakfast food I was putting ketchup on. When I replied "My hash browns" he quickly added "Well you must be a Yankee then!" It has been enjoyable exploring the cultural differences between southern Maine and the rural South. Generally, we have found people to be remarkably friendly. During our resupply in the local supermarket this morning, a woman asked if we needed a ride anywhere. Of course, we eagerly took her up on the offer (which saved us a mile walk back to our motel), although David quickly asked "How did you know we're hikers?" as we didn't have our packs with us. I'd like to think it was our rain gear and Crocs and not our smell that tipped her off.
As we approach Springer Mountain, now less than three weeks away, hikers are beginning to bunch up as everyone pushed to finish before Christmas. We are enjoying hiker camaraderie that has been absent for much of our trip and are seeing more hikers than we have since passing the northbounders in Maine and New Hampshire. Excitement is flowing throughout the group of hikers as we anticipate the conclusion to this journey while appreciating our remaining weeks. It is truly hard to wrap our minds around how far we have come.
December has brought with it precipitation and consistently cold weather. We spent two of the past three days hiking in steady rain, but were greeted with a day of bright sunshine as a respite between the two. Lucky for us, this was also the day we hiked up Hump Mountain and the Roan Highlands, areas others told us would be some of the most beautiful on the trail. As we climbed almost 3000' up Hump Mountain, a covering of bright snow greeted us. We emerged from treeline onto the bald mountain to views that extended 360 degrees. As we snapped photos, both of us were in awe at the beauty of the snow-covered ridge and peak and we basked in the sun knowing more rain was only a day away.
And rain it did yesterday! We made the commitment when we woke up to push all the way into Erwin, TN (pizza and heat are a great motivator), literally a marathon-length day. We were on the trail in the dark and found as the morning progress that wind, not rain would be our greatest challenge. 50mph gusts whipped across the ridges we walked and tore large limbs from nearby trees. Increasingly large blow-downs blocked the whole trail and as we climbed over massive trees, we looked at each other thinking, "Is this the best decision we have ever made?" Town pulled though and we continued, crossing the Nolichucky River into Erwin well before darkness. Hours later, we were warm, showered, and munching on two pizzas.
After several long days, we are taking it easy on a "zero day" here in town. We enjoyed a second breakfast at a local Waffle House knock-off, where an older gentlemen at the table next to ours curiously inquired what breakfast food I was putting ketchup on. When I replied "My hash browns" he quickly added "Well you must be a Yankee then!" It has been enjoyable exploring the cultural differences between southern Maine and the rural South. Generally, we have found people to be remarkably friendly. During our resupply in the local supermarket this morning, a woman asked if we needed a ride anywhere. Of course, we eagerly took her up on the offer (which saved us a mile walk back to our motel), although David quickly asked "How did you know we're hikers?" as we didn't have our packs with us. I'd like to think it was our rain gear and Crocs and not our smell that tipped her off.
As we approach Springer Mountain, now less than three weeks away, hikers are beginning to bunch up as everyone pushed to finish before Christmas. We are enjoying hiker camaraderie that has been absent for much of our trip and are seeing more hikers than we have since passing the northbounders in Maine and New Hampshire. Excitement is flowing throughout the group of hikers as we anticipate the conclusion to this journey while appreciating our remaining weeks. It is truly hard to wrap our minds around how far we have come.
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Thanksgiving in Damascus, VA - Mile 1715.3
Just four trail miles from Tennessee and less than four weeks from Springer Mountain we have a lot to celebrate this Thanksgiving (in addition to the simple excitement brought about by an all-you-can-eat turkey dinner). We pushed our miles over the past eight days to make it to Damascus for the holiday and are warm and cozy in a local bed and breakfast, excited about the trail we have ahead of us.
This past week took us through some of the most beautiful terrain we have seen recently, the Grayson Highlands. At 5000', the open grassy terrain is reminiscent of our time out west and grazing ponies completed the scenic vistas (see our pictures posted below for a visual). Despite some rain and colder temperatures, we are surviving well in the outdoors and appreciate the advantage being Mainers has provided for us in this area.
After several weeks of solitude, we have also encountered more southbounders here in Damascus than anywhere else on our journey so far. Upon entering town yesterday, we went to the local burger joint (food always takes precedence over showers and laundry) with three other hikers. There, we met another hiker who has been ahead of us for months and the numbers kept growing for the following hour. After several rounds of milkshakes, burgers, and chili dogs Chomp was as close to full as he has been in weeks. It has been fun to have the company (we have apparently been dubbed some of the only "normal people" out here) and have others to share our reflections with as we collectively approach the southern terminus of the trail, Springer Mountain.
As we enter the final month of a journey we have both anticipated for years, we have many emotions. Excitement to return home to our dogs remains paramount in our minds, as well as a return to a lifestyle that is less taxing on our bodies. Simultaneously, we realize that the end of this journey will be bittersweet, as the simplicity and flexibility of this life will be difficult to replicate in our lives back in the "real world." Looking back, we have lots to be thankful for on this Thanksgiving. As sparsely as we may have lived this past four months, we truly have received so much through this experience. As we chow down on turkey today, we will be thankful for...
*The simplicity of the experience that allows us to notice how things come our way exactly when we need them out here (we believe it's this way in all of life, but the "noise" sometimes prevents us from noticing)
*How much a sunny day means to us when its been preceded by rain
*The feeling of a warm shower after eight days without one
*Sharing an intense experience as a couple
*The time and space to focus on how fortunate we are both out here and at home
*To still enjoy the hiking when so many around us have blinders on for the finish
*The support we've received from those we know--particularly our families--and complete strangers we have met along the way
*Time to notice how friendly strangers can be (last week, a couple pulled over as we road walked just to ask if there was anywhere we needed to go)
*Calories! (and the luxury of eating everything we can get our hands on)
*Seeing the sun rise and set each day
*Being in the mountains everyday and seeing this country at 2.5mph pace (which provides the opportunity to visit small-town America)
*The camaraderie of other hikers, even if we only see them every 500 miles
*Being at point in the hike where we feel our goal, for so long far away, is now within reach
Happy Thanksgiving! Feel free to peruse our experiences in Virginia at http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/Virginia.
This past week took us through some of the most beautiful terrain we have seen recently, the Grayson Highlands. At 5000', the open grassy terrain is reminiscent of our time out west and grazing ponies completed the scenic vistas (see our pictures posted below for a visual). Despite some rain and colder temperatures, we are surviving well in the outdoors and appreciate the advantage being Mainers has provided for us in this area.
After several weeks of solitude, we have also encountered more southbounders here in Damascus than anywhere else on our journey so far. Upon entering town yesterday, we went to the local burger joint (food always takes precedence over showers and laundry) with three other hikers. There, we met another hiker who has been ahead of us for months and the numbers kept growing for the following hour. After several rounds of milkshakes, burgers, and chili dogs Chomp was as close to full as he has been in weeks. It has been fun to have the company (we have apparently been dubbed some of the only "normal people" out here) and have others to share our reflections with as we collectively approach the southern terminus of the trail, Springer Mountain.
As we enter the final month of a journey we have both anticipated for years, we have many emotions. Excitement to return home to our dogs remains paramount in our minds, as well as a return to a lifestyle that is less taxing on our bodies. Simultaneously, we realize that the end of this journey will be bittersweet, as the simplicity and flexibility of this life will be difficult to replicate in our lives back in the "real world." Looking back, we have lots to be thankful for on this Thanksgiving. As sparsely as we may have lived this past four months, we truly have received so much through this experience. As we chow down on turkey today, we will be thankful for...
*The simplicity of the experience that allows us to notice how things come our way exactly when we need them out here (we believe it's this way in all of life, but the "noise" sometimes prevents us from noticing)
*How much a sunny day means to us when its been preceded by rain
*The feeling of a warm shower after eight days without one
*Sharing an intense experience as a couple
*The time and space to focus on how fortunate we are both out here and at home
*To still enjoy the hiking when so many around us have blinders on for the finish
*The support we've received from those we know--particularly our families--and complete strangers we have met along the way
*Time to notice how friendly strangers can be (last week, a couple pulled over as we road walked just to ask if there was anywhere we needed to go)
*Calories! (and the luxury of eating everything we can get our hands on)
*Seeing the sun rise and set each day
*Being in the mountains everyday and seeing this country at 2.5mph pace (which provides the opportunity to visit small-town America)
*The camaraderie of other hikers, even if we only see them every 500 miles
*Being at point in the hike where we feel our goal, for so long far away, is now within reach
Happy Thanksgiving! Feel free to peruse our experiences in Virginia at http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/Virginia.
Monday, November 16, 2009
Pearisburg, VA - Mile 1552
We reluctantly left Daleville just as tropical storm Ida hit Virginia earlier this week. Technically speaking, Chomp informed Half Full she was plain old crazy to leave a dry hotel in the midst of the ensuing rain, but she insisted. A day later they found themselves hunkered down in a shelter watching the wind blow 30mph gusts of rain across the ridge. Needless to say, Half Full admitted that Chomp had been right afterall! Thankfully, the rain let up by Thursday afternoon and we were moving again.
By the weekend, the weather had turned dramatically and we found ourselves in shorts and t-shirts again. Most of the week's hiking took us along ridgelines for several miles, then through an open valley, and up on the ridgeline again. We passed McAfee's Knob, one of the most photographed places on the trail, in near full fog. Thankfully, our ascent up the Dragon's Tooth (also a notable trail spot) was more clear and provided scrambling reminiscent of our hiking in Maine.
We arrived in Pearisburg by lunchtime today. Somehow our trail legs kick into full gear when food is in order. We'll be taking a zero tomorrow here and then pushing south with the hopes of making it to Damascus in time for Thanksgiving dinner. I have a feeling the meal will be motivation enough.
By the weekend, the weather had turned dramatically and we found ourselves in shorts and t-shirts again. Most of the week's hiking took us along ridgelines for several miles, then through an open valley, and up on the ridgeline again. We passed McAfee's Knob, one of the most photographed places on the trail, in near full fog. Thankfully, our ascent up the Dragon's Tooth (also a notable trail spot) was more clear and provided scrambling reminiscent of our hiking in Maine.
We arrived in Pearisburg by lunchtime today. Somehow our trail legs kick into full gear when food is in order. We'll be taking a zero tomorrow here and then pushing south with the hopes of making it to Damascus in time for Thanksgiving dinner. I have a feeling the meal will be motivation enough.
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