We crossed our second state line yesterday afternoon shortly after each enjoying two slices of pizza and a very large Ben & Jerry's waffle cone (I guess when you are clearly scrubby thru-hikers to the scoopers, they do their best to help with your caloric deficiencies). The state crossing into Vermont brought with it the opportunity to spend some time with Half Full's family in the Burlington area, where we are currently relaxing, catching up on town chores, and eating well. This last topic has been put in the limelight, as the home visit has given us the opportunity to hop on the scale and realize the dramatic effects of trail life on the body. Combined, we have lost 16 pounds--this in just over a month--and are realizing how truly critical eating is to our overall health. What a life it is to force oneself to eat pizza and ice cream!
That said, our bodies are feeling the wear of consistent physical challenge. With only one full day off of the trail in the past five weeks, we are gaining an appreciation for the necessity of rest in this adventure. Each of us has developed some persistent discomfort, largely in our backs, knees, and balls of our feet. All of this is common and expected and will likely last the duration of our hike. As one northbounder expressed to us, he looked forward to being able to "walk on a hardwood floor barefoot without pain" when his hike is completed.
Despite the tenderness and tightness, the hike continues to be the experience we had anticipated. As we run into the back-of-the-pack northbounders, many of whom have taken more time to accomplish their thru-hike, we are reminded of the importance of truly taking in each day and appreciating every aspect of the experience. We feel fortunate to have met so many fellow hikers in this recent stretch who are thankful for the experience they've had on the trail and are trying to make the last month last, rather than counting miles to the finish.
The most dramatic change this past week was in the trail conditions. After summiting Mount Moosilauke on Tuesday--and what a beautiful grassy peak it was!--we officially completed the Whites and found ourselves on hardpack dirt trail (this after several weeks on rocks, roots, and mud). We also hiked through our first fields, a reminder that an Appalachain Trail thru-hike is more than a mountainous journey, but truly one about walking the length of the country. We are looking forward to soaking in a change in scenery and the culture of trail towns as part of the upcoming experience.
Also, we've finally had the time and ability to upload our favorite photos. You can live our journey in pictures at the following sites:
http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/ATMaine#
http://picasaweb.google.com/emily.dolci/ATNewHampshire#
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Monday, August 24, 2009
North Woodstock, NH - Mile 372.7
Since our last post we've hiked through some of the most spectacular mountains on the trail with breathtaking views each day. Despite some rain we were fortunate to have traversed the Presidential Range, including Mount Washington, under clear blue skies and light winds. We braved the crowds on Washington to enjoy pizza and ice cream in the summit cafeteria.
Franconia Ridge provided another highlight of this section. We approached the exposed ridgeline in dense fog and clouds with our visibility limited from one cairn to the next. Shortly after summiting Mount Lafayette the clouds parted briefly providing us stunning views of the three mile ridgeline. It was the most unique sight we experienced so far (pictures should be posted next week).
We've also realized through the Whites how strong our bodies have become, particularly because we've started with the hardest sections of the entire trail. Daily we would hear from northbounders that we should be cautious for the "rugged terrain ahead." None of this hiking ended up being any more difficult than what we had already done. Although the Whites have the reputation of being the hardest hiking in the East, we found the Mahoosucs of western Maine to be more challenging (more bouldering and scrambling).
During this last section of trail we were also introduced to the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) huts. Despised and avoided by some thru-hikers, these huts cater to the affluent, often unexperienced and unfamiliar with backcountry norms and practices. However, they also offer hot meals and dry shelter to thru-hikers in exchange for an hour's worth of chores. While this work-for-stay program is win-win, it also puts thru-hikers in the position of second-class citizens as we were requested to remain scare during the dinner hour. While paying guests receive a bunk, thru-hikers sleep on dining room tables or the floor. Despite some poor nights' sleep, we thorough enjoyed warm dinner leftovers and particularly dessert.
The next week should bring somewhat easier terrain, an increase in daily mileage, and our next state line! The trail traffic should also thin out, as we pass the last of the northbounders and kids head back to school (and Emily doesn't!). Vermont here we come!
Franconia Ridge provided another highlight of this section. We approached the exposed ridgeline in dense fog and clouds with our visibility limited from one cairn to the next. Shortly after summiting Mount Lafayette the clouds parted briefly providing us stunning views of the three mile ridgeline. It was the most unique sight we experienced so far (pictures should be posted next week).
We've also realized through the Whites how strong our bodies have become, particularly because we've started with the hardest sections of the entire trail. Daily we would hear from northbounders that we should be cautious for the "rugged terrain ahead." None of this hiking ended up being any more difficult than what we had already done. Although the Whites have the reputation of being the hardest hiking in the East, we found the Mahoosucs of western Maine to be more challenging (more bouldering and scrambling).
During this last section of trail we were also introduced to the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) huts. Despised and avoided by some thru-hikers, these huts cater to the affluent, often unexperienced and unfamiliar with backcountry norms and practices. However, they also offer hot meals and dry shelter to thru-hikers in exchange for an hour's worth of chores. While this work-for-stay program is win-win, it also puts thru-hikers in the position of second-class citizens as we were requested to remain scare during the dinner hour. While paying guests receive a bunk, thru-hikers sleep on dining room tables or the floor. Despite some poor nights' sleep, we thorough enjoyed warm dinner leftovers and particularly dessert.
The next week should bring somewhat easier terrain, an increase in daily mileage, and our next state line! The trail traffic should also thin out, as we pass the last of the northbounders and kids head back to school (and Emily doesn't!). Vermont here we come!
Monday, August 17, 2009
Mile 297.9 - Gorham, New Hampshire!
Trail magic is a common phrase used with the A.T. community to describe random acts of kindness that occur on the trail. It may be a piece of fresh fruit from a stranger at a trailhead or someone welcoming you into their home for a warm meal. In this past weeks, we have learned firsthand how exciting and uplifting trail magic can be!
Mama Chomp (David's mom) shuttled the dogs out to us on Monday. As if the dogs and her presence weren't exciting enough, she treated us to a delicious breakfast and endless supply of our favorite candy bars. Just two days later, Emily's friend Bluebearee (who thru-hiked herself in 2002) surprised us on the trail near Old Blue Mountain with treats to satisfy all of our cravings (fresh carrots from her garden, homemade cookies, and peanut butter cups). Having a familiar face on the trail was a treat as well! On Thursday Mama Chomp returned to pick up the dogs, again treating us to a hot meal and needed calories. A family friend, Steve Walker, came along and we appreciated his interest and support in our adventure.
At this point, you may be thinking, "When do you guys actually hike?" Amidst the eating, this week brought some of our most challenging miles as we went through the Mahoosuc Mountains of western Maine and into New Hampshire. We have crossed our first state line! To compensate for the challenging miles, friends Nick and Alana hiked in to meet us on Saturday night and brought enough goodies to thoroughly stuff our bellies. David was witnesses licking out his whoopie pie wrapper while Emily ate her Whoopie pie with a spoon and a glass of wine. Their company on the trail was great!
As we get cleaned up and resupply in Gorham, NH we are anticipating the exciting climb into the White Mountains this evening. The weather is in the 90s and we will surely be sweating up some of the biggest climbs of the whole trail (so much for that shower, huh?!). As much as we have enjoyed all the eating this week, the real purpose of it all is to power our hiking, the reason we're here to begin with. A reminder of this is one of the highlights of this week, which was bivying (sleeping out under the stars) on the top of the North Peak of Goose Eye Mountain. We found a rock slab just as the sun was setting and fell asleep with the peak to ourselves, Mt. Washington profiled in the distance, and shooting stars overhead. We really are living a dream.
Mama Chomp (David's mom) shuttled the dogs out to us on Monday. As if the dogs and her presence weren't exciting enough, she treated us to a delicious breakfast and endless supply of our favorite candy bars. Just two days later, Emily's friend Bluebearee (who thru-hiked herself in 2002) surprised us on the trail near Old Blue Mountain with treats to satisfy all of our cravings (fresh carrots from her garden, homemade cookies, and peanut butter cups). Having a familiar face on the trail was a treat as well! On Thursday Mama Chomp returned to pick up the dogs, again treating us to a hot meal and needed calories. A family friend, Steve Walker, came along and we appreciated his interest and support in our adventure.
At this point, you may be thinking, "When do you guys actually hike?" Amidst the eating, this week brought some of our most challenging miles as we went through the Mahoosuc Mountains of western Maine and into New Hampshire. We have crossed our first state line! To compensate for the challenging miles, friends Nick and Alana hiked in to meet us on Saturday night and brought enough goodies to thoroughly stuff our bellies. David was witnesses licking out his whoopie pie wrapper while Emily ate her Whoopie pie with a spoon and a glass of wine. Their company on the trail was great!
As we get cleaned up and resupply in Gorham, NH we are anticipating the exciting climb into the White Mountains this evening. The weather is in the 90s and we will surely be sweating up some of the biggest climbs of the whole trail (so much for that shower, huh?!). As much as we have enjoyed all the eating this week, the real purpose of it all is to power our hiking, the reason we're here to begin with. A reminder of this is one of the highlights of this week, which was bivying (sleeping out under the stars) on the top of the North Peak of Goose Eye Mountain. We found a rock slab just as the sun was setting and fell asleep with the peak to ourselves, Mt. Washington profiled in the distance, and shooting stars overhead. We really are living a dream.
Friday, August 7, 2009
Stratton, Maine
While the majority of our waking hours are spent backpacking (we've been averaging 15 + miles a day), the experience of thru-hiking extends far beyond the walking. Fellow hikers create much of the experience and folks from all walks of life are out here. Other hikers offer info on trail and towns to come, as well as provide stories and humor to fill the evenings. these relationships are largely positive (despite snoring and random late night guitar-playing) and have been a welcome surprise.
One of our favorite memories so far illustrates this trail culture well. A small rustic wilderness camp offers a 12 pancake breakfast to hikers that is only a short walk from an A.T. shelter. So, early one morning in the middle of the Maine wilderness we found ourselves eating pancakes and bacon with 4 northbound hikers we had just met the night before. For an hour, between bites, we laughed and shared stories and left feeling not only full, but amazed and appreciative of the experience in addition to the food. Where else in life would 6 complete strangers share breakfsat and conversation so comfortably?
Other highlights of the week include an abundance of fresh blueberries (it pained us to pass some up)sunny mid-day swims, great views from the Bigelows and Moxie Bald and developing strong thru-hiker appetites. In our half day in Stratton we've consumed donuts, pizza, a pint of Ben & Jerry's, a chocolate bar, hamburgers and fries (David ate a local favorite, the Wolf Burger, which is as intense as it sounds) and multiple bowls of Cocoa Pebbles. Emily is still deciding what she would like for dessert.
The weather forecast continues to look promising and we have some big climbs ahead of us including Sugarloaf and Saddleback. The dogs join us in just a few days and we have lots to look forward to.
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